It looks like the MediaWiki-Docker base image is built on Debian 9 (Stretch) which contains an older ffmpeg:
ffmpeg --version ffmpeg version 3.2.14-1~deb9u1 Copyright (c) 2000-2019 the FFmpeg developers built with gcc 6.3.0 (Debian 6.3.0-18+deb9u1) 20170516
Either this version is too old, or it's compiled against too old a libvpx (or both) to support the -row-mt 1 option for improved multitreaded VP9 encoding when TimedMediaHandler's $wgFFmpegVP9RowMT option is enabled as in production:
Unrecognized option 'row-mt'. Error splitting the argument list: Option not found
I believe in production environment we use a backported ffmpeg and libvpx, but using a Debian 10 Buster base image should resolve this as well I think.
Impact is relatively low other than complicating testing, as I would have to manually install a custom ffmpeg to confirm things work in production configuration. Without the option, fewer cores are used and it takes longer to run each video transcode but things still work.